The capital of Quang Binh Province, Dong Hoi was once a charming little fishing village. However, mirroring Vietnam’s changing economic policies, it has evolved into a leading transit town. Though there are no major sights here, it is remark able to see how the town has recovered from the ravages of war. What was rubble a few decades ago has now changed to wide avenues and well­maintained build ings. It is also interesting to note that for the best part of 150 years, Dong Hoi marked the de facto frontier between the Trinh and Nguyen lords (see p45). Two major ramparts were constructed to keep the enemies separated, but all that remains of them is a crumbling gateway. Though often only used as a stopover on the way to the Phong Nha­Ke Bang National Park, there are some fine beach es nearby, including Nhat Le, 2 miles (3 km) north of town.